Experience Rabens Saloner Spring 2023 runway show - Serendipity
'The way that Scandinavian brands have approached inclusivity in the past has often meant size diversity has felt a little forgotten and overlooked - it is undoubtedly a work in progress. But Rabens Saloner got it right, with a cast many described as a showcase of ‘normal bodies’, which, in stark contrast to many other brands, was a breath of fresh air.'
- Vogue Scandinavia
'Creative director Birgitte Raben spends her time between Bali, where the company has a dye house, and Copenhagen. The label pairs rainbow colours on wardrobe classics with a Scandi minimalist edge. Linen tailoring has a slouchy yet sexy silhouette, while a staple trench coat or blazer are layered over floaty vibrant dresses. Rabens Saloner celebrates light and easy dressing with the suggestion of a happy accident'
- The Guardian
Watch our Spring 2023 Runway Show
Rabens Saloner Spring 23
When it comes to style, sometimes the most beautiful things come from the unexpected: the way colours react when put together by accident or the way a silhouette changes when clothes fall in an unplanned manner. Inspired by such serendipity, Rabens Saloner has created a summer collection that celebrates the joy of light and easy dressing and the allure of the happy accident.
Taking a colour palette from the organic silicone paintings of contemporary artist Lev Khesin, a background of graphic black, white and crystal grey is given bold shots of strawberry, jade and lemon zest to add a dynamic and optimistic edge. Fabrics throughout are light and airy, giving a carefree attitude to summer dressing whilst textures play with the contrast between shiny and matt or organic and ordered.
Linen tailoring in chalky blue has a slouchy yet sexy silhouette with super wide trousers matched with a bandeau top whilst a classic trench coat is cut away to unexpectedly make a summer dress. Seasonal lightweight outerwear plays with texture in a cropped blouson made from an irregular swirling jacquard and a padded jacket in bright yellow with a trompe l’oeil oversized weave stitching. For later in the day, a lightweight tuxedo jacket paired with shorts creates a nonchalant and updated version of a classic Le Smoking suit.
Tie dye, as always, is central to the Rabens Saloner universe and is perhaps the ultimate in organic print making, with each piece created by hand with slightly different results. This season, a haphazard, hand painted multistrip emphasises long fluid silhouettes whilst a soft, mottled effect gives a unique quality to both bias cut tea dresses and sporty sweatshirts. Elsewhere, a bold striated print is used for dramatic effect in a blazer and pants.
As a bright summer day slips into a warm evening, the same sense of relaxed lightness pervades the collection. Downplayed glamour is exemplified by matt blush pink sequins in easy t-shirts and asymmetric skirts whilst lingerie-inspired camisoles and dresses match satin with a contemporary and organic take on lace. Knitwear too remains feather light with hand dyed mohair sweaters and cobweb tops and even accessories show a casual sense of glamour with strappy sandals fashioned from rope and giant clutch bags made from technical nylon. After all, as the Rabens girl knows only too well, true style can come from the most surprising places.
The backstage atmosphere the minutes before a show like this is buzzing. The air is full of excitement and the adrenalin is pumping. Last minute details are getting fixed just in time to hit the stage and 3, 2, 1 line up… it is showtime!