For the spring 2022 collection, Rabens Saloner is feeling reflective!
Watch our Spring/Summer 22 Runway Show
Runway | Spring 22
Fascinated by the way silver mirrors colour and Inspired by the multidisciplinary work of artists Gioele Amaro and Olafur Eliasson, where light is manipulated and visual certainty is subverted, Rabens has designed a collection that plays with colour, texture and fabric. Metallics, transparency and lightness - both in terms of weight and radiance - work together to create a wardrobe that is relaxed, fun and utterly beautiful.
Spring colours of scarlet, coral, gold and soft pink are set against laid-back neutrals such as canvas grey, chalk, charcoal and liquorice black, but all are reflected back in a shiny silver that appears throughout the collection to add a metallic zing. Pleats further distort pattern (in this case a tiny spot) or shape where a placed plissé effect pulls dresses and pants into form-fitting line. A recurring silhouette features tops that sit close to the body but flare dramatically into voluminous skirts, all rendered in the lightest of fabrics.
Utility and sportswear forms the day to day basis of a wardrobe but here is twisted by using white and raw denim as jumpsuits, capes and short double-breasted coats. Quilted vests and skirts are made from a semi-transparent fabric that gives an optical-illusion depth to soft colours whilst alpaca knits feature refracted stripes in bold clashing colours. Light, airy organza forms voluminous dresses or is tiered over another fabric to create a 3-D effect skirt. Of course, silver also makes its appearance in sporty thai-boxing-inspired shorts and trousers and adds some relaxed glamour in a full circle skirt or a shirred, body-skimming tube dress. And after the sun has set? What could be more chic than a lightweight black jumpsuit with a plunging neckline - a truly modern take on evening-wear.
Artisan dye techniques are always central to the Rabens heart. Standouts this season include a dramatic placed circular tie-dye that adds a solar eclipse to kimonos and slip-dresses and a sunrise of colour that radiates up from dip-dyed dresses and tops. As for the signature t-shirts, this season the eyes have it with a collage of peepers or a bold lipstick has a pop art punch.
Silver, gold and shades of pink and red appear as dramatic full stops to an outfit, either as strappy sandals or utilitarian bags - everything you need for a light-filled - and reflective - spring and summer!
The backstage atmosphere the minutes before a show like this is buzzing. The air is full of excitement and the adrenalin is pumping. Last minute details are getting fixed just in time to hit the stage and 3, 2, 1 line up… it is showtime!